In 2013, we embarked on an incredible journey to mark our 40th anniversary. Five years later, wanderlust struck again! This is a continuing series. Come along for the ride, will you?
Sept. 13, 2018
Roma Bella!
[Click on all images to enlarge .]
Our 4th port of call was Rome, where we have been twice before. In 1990, we took a comprehensive tour of the city, while visiting family in the area. My history nerd self was blown away by the spectacular ruins, especially the Colosseum!
The Colosseum is an oval amphitheatre in the centre of the city of Rome, Italy, just east of the Roman Forum.
It is still the largest standing amphitheatre in the world, despite its age.
Construction began under the emperor Vespasian (r. 69–79 AD) in 72 and was completed in 80 AD under his successor and heir, Titus (r. 79–81).
Further modifications were made during the reign of Domitian (r. 81–96).
The three emperors that were patrons of the work are known as the Flavian dynasty, and the amphitheatre was named the Flavian Amphitheatre.
This time, we only had 6 hours, which included a lunch date with said family, so we chose a private tour of the historic structure, particularly the newly-opened underground area. Here’s a little taste of how it looked originally:
A shuttle bus brought us from Rome’s seaport, Civitavecchia, to our first site, The Palace of Justice (Supreme Court).
From there, we proceeded on foot, past the Ponte Sisto Bridge and the Piazza Adriana to the nearest bus stop, where we caught a lift to the Colosseum.
Designed by the Perugia architect Guglielmo Calderini and built between 1888 and 1910, the Palace of Justice is considered one of the grandest of the new buildings which followed the proclamation of Rome as the capital of the Kingdom of Italy.
The foundation stone was laid on 14 March 1888 in the presence of Giuseppe Zanardelli, Minister of Justice and Keeper of the Great Seal, who had insisted on a prestigious location in the Prati district, where various other new court buildings were already going up.
The building’s unusually large size, astonishing decorations, and long period of construction created the suspicion of corruption.
In April 1912 a parliamentary commission was appointed to inquire into the matter and it presented its findings the following year.
The affair gave rise to the building’s popular and pejorative nickname of Palazzaccio (Bad Palace).
Ponte Sisto is a bridge in Rome’s historic centre, spanning the river Tiber.
The current bridge, constructed between 1473 and 1479, was commissioned by Pope Sixtus IV (r. 1471–84), after whom it is named.
Traffic on the bridge is restricted to pedestrians.
A festive carousel sits in the Piazza Adriana, near the Castel Sant’Angelo, which you can see in the background.
The Mausoleum of Hadrian, aka Castel Sant’Angelo, is a towering cylindrical building. It was initially commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian as mausoleum for himself and his family.
Built between 81 and 96 AD, it was later used by the popes as a fortress, and is now a museum.
Before we get to the Colosseum, here’s a look at some other historical points of interest:
The Arch of Constantine (Italian: Arco di Costantino) is a triumphal arch dedicated to the emperor Constantine the Great. It was commissioned by the Roman Senate in AD 312.
Situated between the Colosseum and the Palatine Hill, the arch spans the Via triumphalis, the route taken by victorious military leaders when they entered the city in a triumphal procession.
Dedicated in 315, it is the largest Roman triumphal arch, with overall dimensions of 21 m (69 ft) high, 25.9 m (85 ft) wide and 7.4 m (24 ft) deep. The arch is constructed of brick-faced concrete covered in marble.
The Roman Forum, is a rectangular plaza surrounded by the ruins of several important ancient government buildings at the city center.
For centuries the Forum was the center of day-to-day life in Rome and the nucleus of commercial affairs. it has been called the most celebrated meeting place in the world.
Located in the small valley between the Palatine and Capitoline Hills, the Forum today is a sprawling ruin of architectural fragments and intermittent archaeological excavations attracting 4.5 million or more sightseers yearly (before COVID).
East of the Colosseum sits what remains of the Ludus Magnus Gladiator Training School, originally built by the Emperor Domitian between 81 and 96 AD.
Later rebuilt by Emperor Trajan between 98 and 117 AD, the complex consisted of a central training arena, a few stands for limited spectators, barracks, and storage rooms for equipment.
There was also a tunnel that ran between the underground chambers of the Colosseum and the training centre, making travel between them speedy for the next round of gladiators.
And now, for the main attraction!
Preservation of the Colosseum began in earnest in the 19th century, when the floor was removed to excavate the subterranean area.
More restorations were carried out in the 1990s and 2000s. Now, they are in the process of installing a retractable floor, which should be completed by 2023.
The Colosseum has long been one of Rome’s major tourist attractions, receiving close to seven million visitors annually, before COVID.
The entire underground area, known as the Hypogeum, measured 6 acres. It consisted of a two-level subterranean network of tunnels, shafts, mechanical devices and animal pens.
The tunnels led to other buildings outside the structure of the Colosseum. One went to Magnus, the gladiator school, which was used as the combatants’ entrance to the arena.
Another connected to the Bestiaries’ school where animals stayed. A tunnel named Spoliarium was the path to the “Gate of Death” where dead bodies were dragged and stripped of their armor and weapons before being cleaned, given new armor, and paraded around the arena for the public to pay their respects.There was also an underpass that lead to the Imperial Palace, a special entrance reserved for the Emperor.
The vertical shafts contained lifts operated by ropes and pulleys which provided instant access to the arena for fast changes to scenery, animals, convicts and gladiators. There were 36 trap doors, allowing for elaborate special effects.
It would take weeks months to visit all of the ancient ruins in Rome. As mentioned earlier, we did a major sightseeing tour in 1990 and came back in 2013. No tour that time, but we did seek out the Fountain of Trevi as it had been closed for repairs previously.
The Spanish Steps were designed in 1723 by Francesco De Sanctis, and funded by French diplomat Stefano Gueffier.
They were built to link the Bourbon Spanish Embassy, and the Trinità dei Monti church, both located above — to the Holy See and Spanish Square (Piazza di Spagna) below.
The steps are a mix of curves, straight flights, vistas, and terraces, which have endured many restorations, the latest in 1995.
There are 138 steps in total and no, we didn’t walk to the top. Apparently there is an elevator available now.
The Trevi Fountain dates back to ancient Roman times, since the construction of the Aqua Virgo Aqueduct in 19 B.C. that provided water to the Roman baths and fountains.
It was built at the end of the aqueduct, a three-road junction. These three streets (tre vie) give the Trevi Fountain its name, the Three Street Fountain.
Construction began in 1732 and was finished in 1762, using several sculptors under the supervision of architect Giuseppe Pannini.
Intricately carved out of Travertine stone sourced from nearby Tivoli, the fountain depicts Oceanus, god of water, in the center niche, flanked by Abundance and Salubrity.
Below the gods are a number of seahorses and tritons adding symmetry to the fountain. At the top of the fountain sits the Papal Coat of Arms, suspended by angels.
Legend has it that if you toss a coin into the fountain with your right hand over your right shoulder you will return to Rome. (It worked for us! 😀 )
Happy Trails!
NEXT CHAPTER:
MONTEFUSCO & BENEVENTO | DREAM TRIP PART VII
COMING UP WEDNESDAY DEC. 1:
Before you go, have a listen to Podcast Episode Four
I bet you can relate! 😀
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Dog Mom and (retired) Canine Innkeeper in suburban Toronto, Canada, known as The Doglady. Former corporate workaholic. Writer, photographer, digital creator. Animal lover, music fanatic, inveterate traveller. Eternal hippie/rockchick. History, literature and cinema buff. Hockey and soccer fan. Dedicated night owl. German/Canadian binational, multilingual. Let me entertain you!
16 thoughts on “RETURN TO ROME | DREAM TRIP PART VI”
Hi Debbie,
Wow you have taken me down to memory lane. It has been too long of a time that I visited Rome. There is so much to see rich in culture. And the food….oh my! I’ve always wanted to return with my husband because I just can’t describe all that is there. Maybe I’ll start a “Rome fund” to put some money aside to take another trip!
-Donna
Hi Donna, I’m glad you enjoyed the tour! 🙂 Yes, Rome is wondrous in so many ways, and I’m with you about the food (and the wine). I hope you get a chance to go back someday.
Debbie,
I marvel at the engineering of these ancient buildings/ruins but even more I’m awestruck at how they were able to construct these magnificent places without heavy duty equipment/vehicles. The Colosseum holds amazement and horror in its history. The recounts from the Bible of Daniel in the lions den is a miracle but not all Christians weren’t sparred. Thanks for taking us through the streets of Rome. Hopefully, you and the hubby can return again someday soon. Have a wonderful day, dear friend!
Ancient history was brutal and bloody but also fascinating. 🙂 Thanks for reading the travelogue, Cathy!
Loved the history on some of Rome’s infamous places. I’ve been to Rome twice and hoping for a third visit. 🙂
Rome has so many points of interest, you could spend months there. 🙂 I hope you get the chance to visit again, Deb. Thanks for reading the travelogue!
” before being cleaned, given new armor, and paraded around the arena for the public to pay their respects. ” Lord, what ghouls they were!
Ancient times were brutal and bloody, but the architecture left behind is fascinating! 🙂
I would love to explore Rome. So beautiful. Lucky you for going on this fabulous cruise.
Have a fabulous day and week, Debbie. Big hug. ♥
Rome is quite magical and we are lucky to have family in the area. Gives us an excuse to go back. 🙂 Yes, the cruise was a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. Thanks for coming by, Sandee.
What a wonderful adventure, Debbie. I love how you set up this post. Stunning!
I’m glad you enjoyed the travelogue, Eugenia! 🙂 It definitely was a grand adventure.
Hi Debbie – so much to see, take in, understand … but wonderful you’ve had the opportunity to visit more than once. I’d love to spend time in Rome for a week, or longer!, to travel in and around the city. You have some wonderful memories and I love the photo of you both at the Trevi Fountain … cheers Hilary
Rome is a place you could spend several months, and still not see everything! We are fortunate to have family in the area, making it a little less expensive to visit. That photo of us was on the Spanish steps over 30 years ago. Yikes! Time does fly, doesn’t it? Thanks for travelling with me, Hilary. 🙂
You visited all the good stuff! (Not that I knew, I’ve never managed to go to Rome so far, shame on me)
I think it’s absolutely amazing how well preserved everything is. In Switzerland we have quite some Roman sites as well.
Yes, we did try and visit the main attractions. I was especially fascinated by the Colosseum and happy to have another chance to explore it. I’m sure you would enjoy visiting Rome, Tamara, but Switzerland is beautiful also, as your photos clearly show 🙂 Thanks for reading my travelogue! 🙂 Here’s hoping travel will be possible again, one day soon.